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Best Rooting Hormone

Best Rooting Hormone

For many gardeners, their plants are the outcome of months of hard work.

However, if you have tried to propagate your cuttings you are likely to have fallen victim to them drooping rather than growing into beautifully flourished plants.

This is where the use of a rooting hormone is going to help.

 A rooting hormone is a chemical-based product that works to stimulate plant growth of root cuttings in particular.

They are available in multiple forms; powder, gel, or liquid. Following the application of a rooting product, your roots will then develop and grow at a faster pace. 

If you have experienced the struggle of cuttings that don't appear to be growing, we have you covered.

We have browsed the market selecting our top five picks of the best types of rooting hormones available.

We have also included a buyer's guide below containing our top tips for choosing the best product for your needs. 

If you are in a hurry, not to worry as we have selected our top pick below.

OUR TOP PICK

Garden Safe Rooting Hormone (93194), Case Pack of 1

The Garden Safe Rooting Hormone has a powder formula that works to promote the growth of new plants from cuttings.

Active ingredients include Indole -3 - butyric which is very similar to the natural hormone found in plants.

Similarly to how the natural ingredients perform, this ingredient stimulates the root development of the cuttings.

This hormone is suitable for use on many plant varieties including African violets, roses, geraniums, and many more.

Although the formulation isn't the strongest available it is still going to work with effect on the majority of cuttings.

Affordably priced this product provides you with a cost-effective solution to encouraging root growth.

Using the product is simple as it is ready to use straight away. 

Dip the moistened plant cuttings into the powder solution before planting into your preferred spot.

Pros

  • Contains the active ingredient indole-3-butyric which resembles the natural ingredient found in plants.

  • The Garden Safe Rooting Hormone provides an inexpensive solution for root growth.

  • The powder formula is easy to use.

  • Available in two different size quantities you can select your preferred option.

  • This powder performs well with noticeable results over a short period.

Cons

  • The opening of the container is a little narrow which can make it difficult to use.

EDITORS CHOICE

Bonide (BND925) - Bontone II Rooting Powder, Hormone Root Fertilizer (1.25 oz.)

Suitable for use on bulbs and seeds, this powdered formula root hormone works to stimulate the root growth of your cuttings.

Similarly to our previous pick, this rooting hormone contains indole-3-butyric acid which is very similar to the natural hormone found in plants. 

This powdered formula is suitable for use on many plant varieties from azaleas and geraniums to poinsettias.

Aside from this, it can be used on vegetables, fruit trees, and berries too. It is going to work particularly well on soft cuttings and general house plants despite its milder formulation. 

Applying this product to your cuttings is a straightforward process. Your cuttings simply need to be placed into the formula before being planted into moist soil.

If you are going to be using this powder on seeds or bulbs it can be added to the bag and shaken. This will then allow the product to gather around the seeds or bulbs.

Pros

  • This powder can be used on hard and softwood cuttings.

  • It is available in a single container or multiple quantities so you can select the amount that you require. 

  • It is suitable for use on a wide range of plants. 

  • Using this rooting hormone is easy and straightforward.

  • This rooting hormone can be used on seeds for visible results in a short time. 

Cons

  • This hormone product comes in a small-sized bottle which may be insufficient if you require a decent amount of product.

BEST VALUE

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, 100 ml

The HydroDynamics rooting gel has a water-based formula that delivers high performance in stimulating root growth.

Upon contact with the cuttings, the gel will remain in contact with the stem. Not only does this work effectively in sealing cut tissue, but it will also provide the cuttings with the hormones that they need to develop.

The formula contains an impressive amount of nutrients, vitamins, and minerals to prevent the development of infection while ensuring that the roots are nourished during the important stages of development. 

As a gel formula, it is easy to use although the instructions are detailed on the back of the container should you require additional guidance in the process of doing so.

Place your cuttings into the desired amount of gel before putting them to root in a warm and moist environment. You should expect to witness visible results in 1-2 weeks.

Pros

  • The HydroDynamics Rooting Gel is deemed to be a high performing product.

  • This gel delivers noticeable results within a short amount of time. 

  • It contains nutrients, vitamins, and minerals that aid development in the important stages.

  • The thick gel formula avoids mess and any possible spillages.

  • As a gel-based product, it is easy and straightforward to use.

Cons

  • This product is a little expensive which may make it an unappealing choice for some.

RUNNER UP

DIP N Grow DG00201 Liquid Hormone Concentrate Rooting Solution, 2-Ounce

The Dip N Grow Rooting hormone solution is a liquid-based product that contains both rooting auxins for the best results.

Something we particularly like about this product is that it comes with an additional container that can be used for the concentrate. 

Impressively, this product is self-sanitizing. It contains ethyl and isopropyl alcohol and so this helps to avoid cross-contamination which can cause your plants to become damaged due to the toxic residue. 

Unlike the previous products that we have mentioned, this DIP N Grow liquid solution is going to require diluting beforehand, however, as mentioned the additional measuring cup is going to make this task much easier.

You can also dilute the formula according to the plants that it is going to be used on.

You are likely to need a higher volume of water for softwood cuttings and a smaller amount of water if you are tackling challenging hardwood cuttings. 

Pros

  • This hormone is self-sanitizing which helps to avoid cross-contamination.

  • It comes with an additional pot for mixing the formula.

  • It contains both types of auxins that help to stimulate root growth.

  • As a product that requires diluting you can make it to the exact strength that you require.

  • This product delivers fast noticeable results.

Cons

  • This product has a strong odor so it is beneficial to use it in a well-ventilated area.

RUNNER UP

Rooting Gel for Cuttings – IBA Rooting Hormone - Cloning Gel for Strong Clones - Key to Plant Cloning - Midas Products Rooting Gel Hormone for Cuttings 4oz - for Professional and Home Based Growers

This rooting compound by Misa Products contains IBA which is one of the top hormone ingredients that is used to clone plants.

For this reason, you can be sure that this is going to be a reliable solution for achieving the desired results. 

As a maximum strength product, this hormone gel is going to work in cloning your plants in a reduced period.

Alongside the IBA contents this product also contains Indole-3-Butyric Acid and as we have stated, this ingredient is renowned for the results that it achieves in encouraging the development of strong roots.

As expected, applying too much product to the root of your cuttings can have adverse effects causing them to become damaged.

This needn't be a concern with this gel as it has the perfect formula ratio and balance for the best results. It is also easy to use and can be used by beginners and advanced gardeners alike.

Take your cuttings and absorb the end into the product before planting it into an area of moist soil.

Pros

  • This product is backed with a money-back guarantee and 24-hour customer service support. 

  • This is a scientifically formulated gel product so you can have confidence in the results.

  • It's easy to use making it the ideal product for casual gardeners and professionals alike. 

  • It contains two powerful ingredients that are going to be highly influential upon the results achieved. 

  • This product achieves noticeable results in a short amount of time.

Cons

  • The packaging is prone to leaking which could cause it to become messy.

Best Rooting Hormone Buying Guide

Before making your purchase, it is necessary to consider multiple factors. The market offers many rooting hormones in different varieties.

Selecting the right product for your needs is crucial as this will ensure that it is going to deliver the most noticeable results on your plant cuttings. 

We have identified our top tips for selecting the right product below. 

The Type of Hormone

As you can see from our guide above, rooting hormones are available in three different formulation types. This includes liquid, gel, and powder.

Just like the other options, a liquid-type formula intends to stimulate the growth and development of the roots. The majority tend to come in a diluted form which makes them easier to use straight away.

A liquid formula is often sought after by those who have a large number of plants and cuttings. This is because it is much easier to spread along the root section of your plants.

You also have greater control to alter the strength of the formula depending on the plants. 

Powder formula is commonly used by casual and professional gardeners alike. Powder-based formulas tend to have a lower concentration of active ingredients which make it milder but still effective in working on roots.

It also tends to be longer-lasting than other variations available. A gel-based formula is the easiest to use as you can apply your required amount of product to the roots of the stems.

Although this product tends to be most demanding in terms of its storage requirements, it is longer-lasting. 

The Active Ingredients

The majority of rooting hormones contain active ingredients, the most common being indole-3-butyric acid. This works to encourage the development of the cuttings and roots.

Another popular active ingredient is IBA. This is a hormone that is part of the auxin family and is used in many commercial horticultural rooting products.

Other popular ingredients are auxins and these play a crucial role in the growth of roots along with the behavioral process of plant life.

The concentration of these ingredients can differ depending on the products and formulations with some being stronger than others. 

Plant Suitability

The plant suitability can differ depending on the product, however, you will find that the majority are suitable for a wide variety of plants.

Others will also be suitable for use on trees and vegetables too etc. 

Cross-contamination

It is important to avoid cross-contamination as this can cause your cuttings to become damaged.

Depending on the strength, some ingredients can become toxic to the plants.

Rooting Hormones that are self-sanitizing avoid this issue and as a result, your plants aren't going to become damaged, instead flourishing and growing. 

Using the Product

Preferably your product should be easy to use, particularly if you are a casual gardener or one that is new to using rooting hormones.

You may find particular formulations to be easier to use than others. Most products will have detailed guidance on the packaging.

With most products, you will need to take your cuttings and then absorb them in the desired amount of product. Most will then need to be kept in a warm or humid environment for the most noticeable results.

Once they have absorbed the product, they can be planted into moist areas of soil. You will also find that some products will need to be used on moist cuttings.

In some cases, these products can be used on seeds and bulbs too. You will simply need to put the required amount of product into the bag before shaking it to coat the seeds and bulbs for optimal growth. 

The Size of the Container 

The container size can be different depending on the brand, some will manufacture their products in larger size quantities.

It is necessary to pay attention to the specifications of your products so that you are aware of the quantity that you are going to receive.

If you require a lot of product you may benefit from purchasing a larger container as this is going to deliver long-lasting use.

However, you may also find that some smaller sized products last for a considerable amount of time as you only require a small amount of product for each use.  

Diluted or Undiluted

Particular products will come diluted ready for use while others come undiluted. In some cases, you may be able to use the product undiluted depending on the plant type.

If you are dealing with softwood plants a diluted product is going to be suitable.

However, if you have hardwood plants that are difficult to root you may benefit from using an undiluted product because it is stronger in strength and can tackle challenging roots with ease.

Those that come undiluted are also likely to last longer as there is more product in the bottle.

A good thing about diluted and undiluted rooting hormones is that you can control the strength. 

Time to Work/ achieve noticeable results

Some products may take longer to work than others. You may find that following application of particular products you witness noticeable results within a shorter period.

Of course, the intention of using a rooting hormone is to encourage the development of your roots, and ideally, you want to witness the results within a shorter period.

With some products, you will notice results within a couple of days to a week, with others you may not see results for a few weeks.

The amount of time taken to achieve noticeable results is going to be a reflection of the effectiveness of the product.

The Cost

Many rooting hormones provide an inexpensive solution to tackle cuttings that are struggling to develop.

Those that are of a professional standard are likely to be a little more expensive as they are considered to be the most effective in achieving noticeable results.

The amount that you spend is likely to depend on the budget that you have in mind. The price can differ depending on the brand too.

However, do not be put off by expensive price tags as there are plenty of affordable options available that are considered to be just as effective in regards to the results that they achieve. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for rooting hormones to work?

The time taken for the rooting hormone to work can differ depending on the plant.

You will find that some can root in as little as 1-2 weeks while others can take many months. It may also differ depending on the product.

Can you use too much rooting hormone?

Yes, you can use too much rooting hormone and this can cause the cuttings of the plant to become damaged as a result.

Your cuttings aren't going to benefit from excessive exposure to rooting hormone.

If the foliage of your plant comes into contact with the rooting hormone it can cause the leaves to become damaged.

Do rooting hormones work?

Yes, they do, so long as they are used according to the guidance stated by the manufacturer.

Of course, there may be the odd occasions where these products are ineffective but this can be for several reasons, the most likely being incorrect use.

They work to increase the chances of your cuttings developing roots and this is likely to occur at a faster pace than plants that haven't used a rooting hormone.

It is particularly beneficial for those who are looking for an easy alternative for effective plant propagation. You may find certain brands to be more effective than others too. 

Can You Mow in the Rain?

Can You Mow in the Rain

To a lot of people mowing the lawn can be considered a chore that they don’t particularly want to spend their free time doing.

So, you put it off for days and weeks until the grass is so overgrown that you’re struggling to see any resemblance of a path. 

‘Right, that’s it!’ - you think, until a clap of thunder is heard and the clouds unveil the never-ending rain that is sure to last for the next month.

So, you’ve missed the opportunity to get out there in the glorious sunshine and mow the lawn. 

Can You Mow in the Rain

But can you still mow in the rain?

Otherwise, you’ll be stuck with an overgrown lawn for the rest of the winter and an incredibly challenging task for next spring. 

Today we’ll be looking into whether you can mow in the rain (spoiler alert - the answer is a resounding no) and why. 

You Should Not Mow Wet Grass

The hopeful thought of mowing your wet lawn was short-lived, wasn’t it?

Unfortunately, many people have come together to say that you should absolutely not mow in the rain.

It’s not just for one reason, either. There is a whole list of reasons why you shouldn’t mow the grass while it’s wet. 

So, put your wellies away and take your rain mac off - you’re going to have to sit this one out.

In the meantime, let’s go over some of the reasons why people are so adamant that you should not mow your lawn while it’s raining. 

Safety First!

Mowing the lawn on wet grass can be dangerous for you as you have a higher chance of slipping and falling.

Normally if you were to slip in the rain you would simply get back up, brush yourself off, and have a good chuckle about it later. 

However, if you’re slipping over while operating a heavy and dangerous piece of machinery, all laughter goes out of the window.

Around 69 people are killed every year in the USA due to lawnmower accidents, so it is imperative that you put your safety first and wait for the grass to dry. 

Say Goodbye to a Clean Cut

Raindrops weigh blades of grass down and therefore you won’t get a clean cut if you’re mowing grass in the rain.

As soon as the rain stops and the grass dries you’ll be left with an uneven lawn that will need to be mowed all over again.

To avoid all of your hard work being rendered useless, make sure that you only mow the lawn when it’s dry. 

Moreover, wet grass has a tendency to clump together.

If your mower’s blade catches a clump it might not trim it but drag it out of the earth altogether. This could leave you with dead spots on your lawn. 

Damaged Foundations

Spongy soil might be prone to sinking as heavy machinery passes over it.

If you mow a wet lawn you could create an uneven surface for the grass, ensuring that there are plenty of ruts for water to pool and remain on the grass.

Wet patches are breeding grounds for bacterial and fungal infections. 

Obviously, this is something that you’ll want to avoid, so mowing the lawn in the rain is not a good idea.

It also has the potential to permanently damage your foundation and grass, meaning that you’ll need to have new grass installed in the springtime.

To avoid this unnecessary expense, wait for the rain to completely stop. 

Waterlogged Mowers

Finally, we all know that water and electricals don’t mix.

If you have an electrical mower you should never use it in the rain, no matter how water resistant it claims to be.

Alternatively, if you have a manual mower you should still not use it in the rain, but you won’t have the threat of electrocution burdening you. 

Water makes the grass heavier and therefore puts more strain on the mower’s blades.

This could cause the mower to stall or put too much pressure on the battery so that it gives up altogether.

Moreover, water rusts metal which is likely what your mower’s blades are made of. 

If you don’t want to have to replace or repair your mower anytime soon, it’s a good idea to keep it away from water as much as possible. 

How To Cut Wet Grass … Even Though We Told You Not To

If it is a matter of life and death and you absolutely can not wait three days for the grass to dry out, there are a few ways in which you can make cutting wet grass safer for both you and the mower.

First of all, you’re going to need to remove as much water from the grass as possible. 

Lay a hose across the lawn and drag it horizontally so that the water is pushed away from the grass you want to mow.

Start mowing the grass slowly so as to not put too much strain on the blades and raise the mowing height to avoid additional pressure. 

Empty the clippings more regularly than when you mow during sunny weather, but make sure that the mower is turned off before doing so.

Wet grass is more likely to clog up the mower so you don’t forget to empty it as you mow. 

Once you’re happy with the mowed lawn, clean the mower thoroughly and dry it off. This will prevent rust or corrosion from happening until you need to use it again. 

Summary

You can go back to staring at the gloomy sky out the window now, praying for the rain to let up for long enough to mow at least a patch of grass!

Or, alternatively, you can disregard the risks and mow in the rain anyway - it’s your choice, after all! 

Just remember that there are several things to go wrong when it comes to mowing wet grass, so it’s best to wait and let the grass dry first.

However, if you can’t wait and need to get mowing, please regard our safety tips and be careful. 

How to Get Cats to Stop Eating Plants

Do you have a pesky (but cute) neighborhood cat that is always snacking on your prized plants?

Maybe it is your own cat who can’t resist a chomp!

Or maybe you just suspect a cat is doing it but you’ve never caught them in the act.

Whatever the issue, cats eating your plants is a huge problem… for your garden and for their health.

This article is going to tackle the ways you can put a stop to this, ensuring your plants never become dinner again!

The good news is, the vast majority of the methods we have found for you are natural. This means that they will not harm your plants, and more importantly, they won’t harm those cute cats either!

So keep on reading if this is a problem in your garden, and find the best cat repellent method for you!

Methods

Citrus Peel

The first method we want to discuss is citrus peel! Believe it or not, citrus peel repels cats. They especially hate lemons.

Next time you use lemon in your cooking or homemade lemonade, keep the peel and sprinkle it onto the soil around the plants in question.

Ensure the lemons are unwaxed and washed to ensure they do not harm the delicate soil. This should prevent the cats from coming near your plants, and in turn, the lemon will eventually breakdown into the soil providing extra nutrients for it.

Remember to replace the peel regularly though so it keeps doing its job!

It is worth noting that whilst citrus is a great deterrent, you should never use citrus essential oils, even if they have been watered down as they can be highly poisonous for your cat!

They may also harm your soil. 

Homemade Citrus Spray

Talking of citrus, another option is to use the juice of your favorite citrus fruits.

Grab a clean, empty spray bottle or spritzer and fill it around 3 quarters full of water, then add a juice of your choice -  freshly squeezed lemon, orange, or lime is best.

You can then spray the area around your plants, and even the plants themselves to deter your feline friends.

Ensure that you use the juice and not oil. Citrus essential oils can be extremely harmful to kitties, as well as your plants. 

Cayenne Pepper

Another scent related deterrent is cayenne pepper. Whilst it is a much-loved staple in our kitchens, cats hate the stuff!

Try sprinkling cayenne pepper around your plants. One sniff of that and the cat will stay away for good! It contains capsaicin which repels cats and can also be found in commercial cat repellents because of how effective it is.

It is not harmful to the kitties either, so it’s a win-win!

As if that wasn’t cool enough, the cayenne pepper can also benefit your plants as it is thought to repel other nosy pests such as rabbits and dogs, as well as being a great insect repellent. 

Get Your Cat their Own Plant 

Seriously, you can do this! We don’t recommend a potted cactus or succulent, we don’t mean giving them a new house plant.

What we mean is to plant some cat-friendly plants that are specifically designed for them. Catnip is the most popular one to choose from!

You’ll love watching your furry friends loll around your garden after sniffing some catnip. It is all-natural and makes a lovely addition to any garden.

Trust us, when your cat realizes there’s catnip on your lawn they won’t take a second glance at your prized plants!

Cats are also fond of mint, so you could try growing some mint, but keep in mind that if you do that, the mint will be for them, not you!

You don’t get to be mad if they ruin the mint and catnip, because that’s what it’s there for!

Get Cat Repellent Plants

No this isn’t just something we have made up, we promise!

There are some plants out there that are known to actually repel animals. Plants with thorns such as roses and cacti naturally repel animals because one prick from the spikes and they will scarper, leaving your plants alone for good.

The spikes are not likely to cause them huge amounts of pain but will be enough to just scare them away.

Another option that is even nicer and will even be beneficial to you is to grow rosemary!

Rosemary is a herb that has a very recognizable, fresh scent to us humans. However, for cats, it is a scent that repels them.

Grow some of that in entrance areas to stop them from coming into your garden altogether. Then you can pick some for cooking whenever it takes your fancy! 

Buy a Commercial Spray Specifically Designed for This

Of course, there are products that have been designed specifically with cat deterrence in mind.

Do some research on what products may suit your garden the best. You can spray the leaves directly with the product and deter cats once and for all!

With any commercial over the counter spray like this we would always recommend speaking to a vet first, and only consider it after you have exhausted all the natural options possible we have listed above. 

Conclusion

As you can see, there are so many options to choose from when it comes to trying to stop cats from eating plants.

The majority of them are all-natural and safe for your plants, and more importantly, the kitties!

Whatever method you choose, be sure to monitor how well it is working. If you don’t see results from the first one, move on to the next one, and so on.

We are sure that your chosen method will work like a charm, though, as these are all tried and tested methods that have worked for hundreds of years!

If you do choose to opt for a commercial spray, we cannot stress enough the importance of checking with a reputable vet first about the safety of the product!

Remember, plants can grow back, the health of your feline friend is far more important! 

How to Fix Overfertilized Lawn

Introduction

Have you noticed your lawn looking a little bit sad lately?

Are there brown patches appearing, even though you’ve tended it over and over again to make sure that it’s thriving?

Well, there could be several reasons why this is happening.

If you are noticing large patches of your grass have gone brown despite your numerous attempts to water them consistently, then the chances are you have doused them with much too much fertilizer.

But don’t despair, even though you might have burnt out patches, your garden or lawn is far from ruined.

There are a few quick and easy gardening tips that, if applied correctly and regularly, will return the greenness and lushness of your grass in no time at all.

But what are the main signs of an overfertilized lawn? What tools do you need to have to tackle the task of rejuvenating your lawn back to full health? How can you prevent your lawn from experiencing fertilizer burn again?

Well, lawn-lovers, we have some of the best tips and tricks for restoring your garden, with our step-by-step guide to fixing an overfertilized lawn, as well as some of the main signs of overfertilization and what equipment you’ll need.

Signs of an Overfertilized Lawn

If you apply excessive amounts of fertilizer to your lawn, then you’ll experience what most garden experts call ‘fertilizer burn’.

Fertilizer burn is when the salt and nitrogen levels of the grass increase, which can damage and kill the grass. This manifests itself in brown or yellow strips of dead grass on your lawn.

When your fertilizer is first applied, you’ll be able to detect that you’ve applied too much by simply noticing that the fertilizer will have formed a crust on the surface of the grass.

However, apart from this, some of the main symptoms of fertilizer burn that will be visible only after a few days and will manifest itself in the following ways:

  • The blades of the grass will transform from green to yellow or brown.
  • The roots of the grass will turn black.
  • The grass will grow a lot slower than usual after the fertilizer has been applied.

The reason for the slower rate of growth in your grass is because the excess of salt will not allow the grass to absorb as much water as usual.

What You’ll Need to Fix Your Overfertilized Lawn

Thankfully, there are simple ways you can repair your damaged grass.

First, you’ll need to gather some of the following garden tools:

  • A bag of nutrient-rich compost
  • Grass seeds
  • Topsoil
  • A sprinkler head
  • Garden hose
  • A rake
  • A shovel
  • A wheelbarrow

Most of these tools you should already have in your garden. Items such as compost, grass seed and topsoil can be purchased at your local hardware store. 

Once you have these items, simply follow this guide to restore your lawn to its former glory.

Check the Roots

First, you’ll need to scrutinize how much the fertilizer has damaged your grassroots.

Pulling your grass out of the ground by the blades, you should be able to see the roots.

If your leaves are damaged but the roots are still a healthy brown color, then the chances are that only the leaves have been affected. 

If this is the case, all you need to do is keep watering until the plants repair themselves.

However, if your roots are dead, appearing washed out and brown, then you’ll need to replace the grass wholesale.

Water, Water, Everywhere

Water is the very stuff of life, and whether it’s humans or plants, adding water to the situation can be no bad thing.

No matter how severe the damage to your grass, you should keep watering them throughout. Take your garden hose and sprinkler and water the affected areas evenly to encourage growth.

You should even be watering the healthy parts of your lawn to avoid the damage of the fertilizer spreading and killing off every blade of grass in sight.

The water will also dilute the excess of salt and nitrogen that has built up due to the fertilizer.

To make sure that all the fertilizer is flushed out, you’ll be wanting to add around an inch of water every day for around a week.

Back to Your Roots

Once you’ve completed this cycle of watering, you might expect to see green grass flourishing once again. If not, you might want to go back under the soil and check the roots.

If your roots are still shriveled and brown even after a prolonged period of watering, then you’ll know that they are permanently damaged and will need replacing in the affected areas.

However, even before replacing these overfertilized areas, you’ll have to make sure that all the excess toxins have been completely rinsed from the area to ensure it will thrive afterward.

Raking N’ Tilling

When replacing your dead grass, you’ll need to rake away all the brown or yellowing grass with your rake.

The hard and sharp prongs of the rake are the best way to pull up the damaged roots and give you better access to healthy roots through watering.

Through tilling, you can expose the roots underneath to the extra moisture that they will need to grow.

This process is crucial, as dead grass will prohibit newer roots from growing deeper into the ground.

Resodding and Reseeding

This all depends on how damaged the roots and the soil around them is.

If you have a suspicion that the soil has been exposed to too much fertilizer, then you should dig out the soil with your shovel and replace it with new compost.

Plant your seeds in this compost and then apply the topsoil for added nutrients.

More Watering and Maintaining

Once the new seeds are planted, then resume watering the entirety of the garden. The freshly planted grass will grow a lot quicker if it is well-watered.

Wait until the new grass has grown at least 3 inches high before trying to cut it to the same length as your other grass. This will ensure that the roots of the grass have dug into the soil well.

Lady Banks’ Rose

Yellow Lady Banks rose

There are at least 2 cultivars of the Lady Banks rose: white-flowered Rosa banksiae ‘Alba Plena’ and the yellow ‘Lutea’. Both are large climbing roses that bloom heavily once a year in spring.

Yellow Lady Banks rose
Close up of Yellow Lady Banks rose flowers – Latin name – Rosa banksiae Lutea

Origin of Lady Banks’ Rose

The Lady Banks’ climbing rose is a species rose which originated in Scotland. It made its way to the U.S. in 1885 inside a box of rooted cuttings sent to Mary Gee, the homesick bride of mining engineer Henry Gee who relocated to Tombstone, AZ to work for the Vizina Mining Co.

The box contained several rooted cuttings and Mary planted 1 out by the patio of the boarding house owned by Vizina where she and Henry lived when they first arrived in Tombstone.

That plant, known as the Tombstone rose, is still alive and thriving outside the boarding house which is now the Rose Tree Museum. This white Banks’ rose has grown into an 8,000 sq. foot tourist attraction.

The curator of the museum claims that all Banks’ roses growing in the U.S. today are descendants of the Tombstone rose.

The Lady Banks’ climbing rose is a species rose which originated in Scotland. It made its way to the U.S. in 1885 inside a box of rooted cuttings sent to Mary Gee, the homesick bride of mining engineer Henry Gee who relocated to Tombstone, AZ to work for the Vizina Mining Co.

The box contained several rooted cuttings and Mary planted 1 out by the patio of the boarding house owned by Vizina where she and Henry lived when they first arrived in Tombstone.

That plant, known as the Tombstone rose, is still alive and thriving outside the boarding house which is now the Rose Tree Museum. This white Banks’ rose has grown into an 8,000 sq. foot tourist attraction.

The curator of the museum claims that all Banks’ roses growing in the U.S. today are descendants of the Tombstone rose. Below is a picture of the Lady Banks’ Rose in bloom at the Rose Tree Museum.

Copyright © 2016-2017 Rose Tree Museum

The species bears white flowers which smell of violets. Rosa banksiae Lutea (sometimes called Lutescens) is the yellow Lady Banks’ rose. Some growers say Lutea is mildly fragrant but I have a Lady Banks’ yellow rose in my side yard and I have never detected any scent at all from it.

I have always believed that there were just the 2 colors but lately, I’ve been hearing whispers about a pink Lady Banks’. Rosa banksiae ‘Rosea’, perhaps? Also, there may be a second white cultivar called ‘The Pearl’.

The flowers (whichever color they are) are small–about an inch in diameter. They occur in clusters and a mature Banks’ rose in full flush is breathtaking.

Growing Tips for Lady Banks’ Rose

Lady Banks’ roses are big. The flexible canes can reach 30 feet or more in time so be sure to give the Lady some elbow room. She likes to climb trees and will have no trouble blooming in the high shade of a tall tree.

Just make sure the tree you train this rose into is large and sturdy enough to handle her. My Lutea was happily growing into a mature oak. All was well until several hurricanes blew through town, back-to-back, a few years ago. The storms took out the oak and the rose as well.

I thought my Grand Dame was dead until I noticed a familiar cane waving in the wind through my office window last spring. No. It couldn’t be…I ran out to take a closer look. It was my Lady Banks’ climbing rose! Just 1 thornless, whiplike, flowerless cane but I would know those small, unusually-shaped leaves anywhere. The roots must have survived all this time. It may take her a few years to grow into a blooming monster again but that’s o.k. She’s worth the wait.

Pruning a Lady Banks’ Rose

This seems to be what confuses people growing this rose the most. It’s simple.

You don’t actually have to prune it at all unless:

  • You plant it too close to something else you don’t want it to grow into.
  • You train it over a rose arbor which is too small for it.
  • You notice dead or broken canes.

Again, it’s a big plant that can grow quickly if fed and watered regularly. If you want to prune it, do so immediately after the flowers fade and you won’t have to worry about messing up next spring’s bloom. This old rambler blooms on old wood so don’t ever cut all the canes back hard like you would a Hybrid Tea or you’ll have to wait a couple of years for it to bloom again.

Lady Banks’ roses are evergreen and virtually immune to roses diseases. I’ve never seen a single spot on the 1 I’m growing here in humid Florida. It is also the most drought tolerant rose I have ever grown. Water a newly planted Banks’ rose regularly (as you would any other plant) until it has been in the ground for 2 years. Then, just water it deeply during dry spells.

Once it matures, it will only need supplemental water during periods of extreme heat and extended drought. Propagating Lady Banks’ is easy. She grows easily from cuttings.

Plant Rosa banksiae in zones 7-11.

Questions About Gardening and Lawn Care

Today, I am going to go over some questions about gardening and lawn care that I have been asked or read over the years. Instead of writing an entire article on each question, I will try and give you the best answer I can. Most of these questions have very short answers. I will update this page as often as I can.

Best Time To Water Your Lawn?

What is the best time to water your lawn? Anytime in the morning before 10 am is the best time to water your lawn. This is best for water absorption.

Best Vegetable Garden Compost?

I like THIS ONE

Best Vegetable Garden Books?

I have been asked this question a couple of times now. There are a lot of great books on vegetable gardening and there are new ones coming out regularly. CLICK HERE for a great list of the best vegetable gardening books.

Best Vegetable Garden Insecticide?

This is personal preference, but I like THIS ONE.

Best Vegetable Garden Fertilizer?

I really like THIS ONE. It is also organic!!

When Is The Best Time To Plant Flowers?

The best time of the year to plant flowers depends on the flower you are looking to plant. Here is a quick flower planting guide.

Fall

  • Lilies
  • Tulips
  • Daffodils
  • Peonies

Spring

  • Violets
  • Begonias
  • Marigolds
  • Snapdragons

Best Time to Plant Bushes?

Fall is the best time to plant bushes.

Best Time of Year to Plant Grass?

The best time of year to plant grass is early spring through early summer.

Best Time to Plant Corn?

Spring is the best time to plant corn.

When is the Best Time to Plant Sunflowers?

Late spring is the best time to plant sunflowers. You want the ground temperature to be between 60 and 70 degrees.

When is the Best Time to Plant Fruit Trees?

In order to plant fruit trees, you want to make sure that the ground is not frozen. Late winter or early spring is your best bet.

When is the Best Time to Plant Iris Bulbs?

In order to have your iris bloom in the spring, you need to plant them in the fall.

Best Time to Plant Clover?

Clover grows best in the spring rain. So the best time to plant clover would be in April or May.

Best Time to Plant Maple Trees

Fall is the absolute best time to plant a maple tree.

Best Time to Plant Evergreen Trees

Fall is the best time to plant evergreen trees. Especially after the hot summer temperatures are done.

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